ABSTRACT
O filtrado de fermentação, (FF), um subproduto de leveduras rico em nutrientes, é usado cosmeticamente no leste da Ásia desde a década de 1970. Revisamos sistematicamente os efeitos deste ativo tópico na saúde da pele e determinamos as limitações nos estudos disponíveis. A literatura recente mostrou evidências na redução do tamanho dos poros, e tambem da aspereza, hiperpigmentação e vermelhidão. No entanto, esses estudos são limitados em eficácia devido ao pequeno tamanho da amostra, muitas variáveis e capacidade limitada de validação externa. Devido ao aumento de produtos cosméticos contendo esse ingrediente, é necessária uma análise crítica da literatura disponível e futura para evitar a desinformação do consumidor
Ferment filtrate (FF), a by-product of nutrient-rich yeast, is believed to be used cosmetically in East Asia since the 1970s. We systematically reviewed the topical effects of ferment filtrate on skin health and determined limitations in the available studies. Recent literature has shown evidence in reducing the baseline fluctuation of pore size, roughness, hyperpigmentation, and redness. However, these studies are limited in efficacy due to their small sample size, their confounding variables, and their limited generalizability. Because of the increase of cosmetic products containing this ingredient, critical analysis of the available and future literature is necessary to prevent consumer misinformation.
ABSTRACT
Based on previous studies, it has been found that goji berry (GB), popularly known as a 'miracle fruit', has excellent antioxidant potential and can be used in the treatment of skin disorders associated with ageing. This study aimed to incorporate GB into a structured cosmetic in order to optimise its penetration. Stability studies of the formulation, determination of the antioxidant activity of the extract and of the formulation, rheological measurements, SAXS, polarised light microscopy and bioadhesion analyses were performed. The results indicated the antioxidant activity of the extract, which can be incorporated into an emulsified cosmetic formulation. The emulsified formulation containing the extract remained stable, even after being submitted to thermal and luminous stresses for 30 days. In addition, rheological tests revealed that the addition of the GB soft extract reduced the viscosity of the formulation, increasing thixotropy and deformation. These systems were characterised by SAXS as a lamellar phase, which was confirmed by polarised light microscopy. These highly organised structures indicate their excellent stability. In vitro bioadhesion experiments revealed that these formulations exhibited skin adhesion strength statistically similar to commercial anti-ageing formulation. These results suggest that this formulation has excellent potential to be used as a topical treatment for ageing.
ABSTRACT
Abstract: Sensitive skin is a condition characterized by stinging, burning and itching sensations. The diagnosis, pathophysiology and treatment of sensitive skin are still under discussion. In the last years, studies on its epidemiology have been performed, showing a high prevalence and impact on quality of life. Brazilian population was also considered in these studies. Cosmetics, climate changes and skin barrier impairment are the main factors that contribute for skin hyperreactivity. New studies are trying to bring new knowledge about the theme. This review will describe data on epidemiology, triggering factors, pathophysiology, diagnosis and treatment.